The Altos de Luzon 2005, which hails from Jumilla, Spain, is no different. It has a striking fresh-pepper smell but tastes surprisingly dark and smooth, bringing to mind both warm chocolate and cool clay.
A good bottle to have around: it's cheap and doesn't take itself too seriously. (That is, it won't go straight to your head.)
Sober and unassuming, there's wit beneath the surface.