Thursday, January 24, 2008

La Percée du Vin Jaune

It would be neat to visit Arbois and catch this sometime. The NY Times has me thinking it's the wine geek's response to mardi gras.

Little cups dangling from neck chains?

Jura, France -- where La Percée du Vin Jaune takes place -- is a wee (1800 hectare) place of clay and limestone that produces three grapes unheard-of anywhere else: Savagnin, Poulsard and Trousseau.

More importantly (at least for the tourism department), Jura is the home of yellow wine. Yellow wine is aged in oak for six years and three months. It keeps 50 to 100 years, says Wikipedia, and the NY Times goes on to describe it as a love/hate kind of drink upon first sip.

Can't wait.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Le Gœuil Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne, 2005

The Domaine Le Gœuil 2005 Cairanne (Cuvée Lea Felsch) is a grenache-based red at 14 percent alcohol.

The women at Red Feet were excited about it because it's fun to drink and was also produced by Catherine Le Gœuil, who's -- surprise-surprise -- a woman.

In Adventures on the Wine Route, Kermit Lynch (who imported this bottle) speculates wine doesn't just take on the qualities of its terrain. It also inherits characteristics from the winemaker.

I can believe this about Le Gœuil's Cairanne; it can't have been made with a heavy hand.

We opened the bottle last night. First inhale is an explosion of ripe red, sweet fruit: strawberries and candy, maybe even grenadine. Deeper inhale betrays a yielding, saccharine quality with a faint alcohol sting.

Cairanne is the color of Welch's grape juice with candy red highlights. She's playful. The taste is young and fleeting, coating the tongue for almost too little time.

It reminds me of being a kid, sometime close to summer when the sun's kiss is still so light it hardly disturbs the dew on your face.

I think it's best had with beautiful things that don't weigh heavy: a bouquet of flowers, fruit and yogurt, maybe quail with baby spinach.

I'd like to buy another one of these and age it awhile. It's a delight as-is, but that very quality makes me suspect an equally compelling maturity.