Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, 2005

I will raise my hand before talking, do the dishes when it's not my turn, and skip dessert in exchange for a good Muscat. And if you aspire to make me the happiest person alive, at least for the evening, I don't think you can do any better than Domaine de Durban's Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.

The color of pale gold, this honey-and-rose-scented pleasure tastes like the first bite of a fresh chilled Fuji apple. A slightly substantial, honeyed sweetness lingers thereafter.

You hardly feel the 15 percent alcohol -- there is no wine shudder -- and, according to the site, the vineyards for the 2005 batch are 25 years old.

The grapes are pure Muscat à Petits Grains. Berry Bros. & Rudd says Muscat Blancs à Petits Grains are the most noble variety of the Muscat family and cites Muscat de Beaumes du Venise among the best vin doux naturels in France.

Sans doute!

Unless you have company by, I don't recommend buying a bottle for home. Once chilled and opened, this is best had quickly and in sparing portions. It's hardly something you want to have on hand all the time; that would be like Santa coming twice a week. Horrors!