Altos de Luzon, 2005

I'm partial to Spanish wines because so many of them taste carnal: close to the earth, close to the flesh.

The Altos de Luzon 2005, which hails from Jumilla, Spain, is no different. It has a striking fresh-pepper smell but tastes surprisingly dark and smooth, bringing to mind both warm chocolate and cool clay.

A good bottle to have around: it's cheap and doesn't take itself too seriously. (That is, it won't go straight to your head.)

Sober and unassuming, there's wit beneath the surface.

Churchill's Finest Reserve Porto

This port, with its fleshy garnet finish and rich rotted-fruit taste, has become one of my favourite treats, especially after consuming a rich meal like duck à l'orange.

I harbor a suspicion that the woman who sold me this bottle is often drunk at work. If your job is to recommend a good spirit, maybe that's not so terrible. 

In any case, she told me Churchill's Finest Reserve Porto distinguishes itself from 20-year tawnies, the ports I used to favor, because it isn't aged in wood.

And the sharp fruity tang goes straight to your head.

When not at home, I generally still prefer to order a Taylor Fladgate 20-year tawny. There's something soothing about that honeyed maple-syrup taste. Churchill's Finest lacks that comfort-food feel.